KOSI BAY
RUSSEL WASSERFALL
The Kosi Bay estuary in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park in KwaZulu-Natal, on the border between Mozambique and South Africa, is renowned for its stunning clarity and vibrant marine life, earning it the nickname "the aquarium." It is part of the Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA), and features a fascinating traditional fishing practice. Passed down through generations of the local Utshwayelo community the technique for sustainably exploiting abundant fish stock is a wonder of human ingenuity.
For over 700 years, the Utshwayelo people have used fish intricate traps to harvest fish from the bountiful Kosi Bay lake system. Fishermen construct curved brushwood palisades that guide fish into circular pens known as ‘kraals’. They feature a cleverly designed gate that fish can enter easily but cannot escape.
The Kosi Bay estuary in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park on the border between Mozambique and South Africa is a system of four lakes that drain into the ocean through a sandy estuary.
It’s a simple process that requires no bait or boats. Fish are naturally drawn to the structure and become trapped and are then speared by the local fishermen. Large fish cannot escape, while smaller ones slip through the stakes which are secured with thick fibres stripped from wild banana palm leaves. This ensures a steady supply of fish while preserving the delicate balance of the ecosystem.
Images by Ryan Pybus
For centuries, local villagers have fished the lakes using an ingenious system of palisade traps to guide the fish into a kraal where they can be easily speared.
Fishermen, like Mike Tembe and his father before him, wade into the warm, waist-high waters of the estuary, collecting their catch and repairing their traps. This hands-on experience connects them deeply to their heritage and the land. The tranquil surroundings, with the gentle lapping of the waves and the rustling of reeds, create a serene backdrop for their daily activities. The proximity of the Kosi Bay estuary to the Mozambique border adds to the area's allure, offering visitors a glimpse into the rich cultural tapestry that defines this region.
Images by Ryan Pybus
Local fisherman Mike Tembe is an expert fisherman who works his traps just as his father and generations of Tembe men have done before him.
While the fishing practices feed local villages, they also create an opportunity for eco-tourism. Travellers come to drink in the beauty of the Kosi Bay lake system and venture out with fishermen like Mike to check the traps, experiencing the daily life of people engaged in centuries-old traditional fishing techniques.
Images by Ryan Pybus
There are literally dozens of family-owned traps in the lake system, sustainably exploiting the abundant resource of fish.
Traditionally, fish is prepared on a green wood stake leaning over hot coals.
Utshwayelo Community Lodge serves as an ideal base from which to explore the lakes. Located just a stone's throw from the fish traps, the lodge offers comfortable accommodations and a chance to engage with the local community. Guests can participate in fishing expeditions, learning the traditional techniques firsthand from the fishermen themselves.
While activities like birdwatching, kayaking, and exploring the surrounding wetlands make it a perfect destination for nature enthusiasts, the real attraction is freshly-caught fish. Guests can enjoy these prepared traditionally over live coals and hear the stories of an ancient culture with their coated in glistening beach sand.
(images supplied by Utshwayelo Lodge)
The community-owned and operated Utshwayelo Lodge is the perfect base from which to explore the traps with local guides. It offers simple but comfortable accommodation and a seafood-rich menu.
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